What’s The Best Antenna For Your Helium Hotspot?

Here is a step by step method for understanding how to choose the best antenna for your hotspot placement. Each placement demands a well matched antenna in order to provide value to the Helium Network and consequently earn the most HNT possible for that location. Do NOT, by the way, try to get the giant antenna in the picture below. While it looks huge and cool and rad, it is the wrong antenna to use for these deployments. I spent a fair amount of blood and treasure to learn that lesson. You don’t need to.

First: Hotspot placement optimization is FAR more important than what antenna you use, more on that here.

High Mountain antenna placement for Helium in the backcountry of San Diego

Second, for those of you who just want AN ANSWER: Simple: Pick up one of these if you’re on a budget (use code GRISTLEKING to knock off another 5%), get this if have plenty to spend or choose from the McGill selection. They’ll all work well.

Put it outdoors at least 10′ above all the buildings around you. Run 40′ or less of LMR400 cable to it from your hotspot. If you have to go more than 40′, use LMR600 if you’re feeling extravagant. That’ll probably get you 80% of the results you could get with far more effort and expertise.

Wait, you want to actually learn and match your antenna to your situation so you get the maximum rewards possible?

Ok, let’s start with broad strokes: The antenna you choose for your hotspot placement should match your topography, your elevation, and your lines of sight.

Let’s start with topography. Topography refers to the buildings, earth, and water that surround, channel, and block your radio signals (propagation.) The topic of radio propagation involves a tremendously deep dive all the way down to the fundamentals of physics, but we’ll keep it pretty simple.

BLUF (Bottom Line Up Front) – The flatter your topography AND the more trees/vegetation you have blocking your Line of Sight to other hotspots, the higher gain antenna you can use, up to 9 dbi.

Remember, topography isn’t just hills and mountains, it includes buildings, trees, and other obstacles.

Ok, let’s get dirty! In general, earth in the form of mountains or hills will block radio signals. Even though a hotspot may seem very close to you, if there’s a hill between the two of you, you probably won’t witness each other.

You may check out your location on the Helium Explorer Coverage map and think you’re perfectly positioned in regards to nearby hotspots, like this:

Remember to check Google Earth!

See how that spot is tucked into a bunch of hills? Unless you put up an antenna that’ll stick over the top of the hills, you’re restricted to witnessing only other hotspots in your immediate area, and in this case, that area is small!

One of the best tools to use when assessing a new site is HeliumVision. Remember, location is FAR more important than antennas. If you’d like to learn more about HeliumVision (I use it in every one of my consults) I’ve built a Master Class on it, over here.

Ok, so that’s earth. Earth = No Radio Waves Getting Through.

What about buildings? How much will buildings block or reduce the power of radio propagation?

According to a study done in 2012 on a wide swath of building materials and focusing on the GSM 900 MHz band, a reinforced concrete wall that is 20cm / ~8″ thick will attenuate the signal by 27 dB. An interior plaster wall will reduce power by anywhere from .8 to 3 dB.

What does that mean? Disclaimer: RF geeks, I’ma get loose with terms here. Relax.

This reduction in power is called “attenuation.” In general with radio communications, you don’t want any attenuation. Attenuation can happen with earth, buildings, forests, and even window coatings. How much power will you lose? Let’s run some numbers.

American based hotspots start off by pushing out 27 dBm. European and other areas start WAY lower, at 14. Add the gain (dBi) from your antenna and subtract the losses from any connections to figure out your Effective Isotropic Radiated Power (EIRP).

That means a 6 dBi antenna will give you 33 dBm of EIRP with a US hotspot. 27dBm + 6dBi = 33dBm in the direction of antenna gain. Now you’ve got to calculate cable and connection loss.

As a rough rule of thumb, each connection (hotspot to antenna cable, antenna cable to antenna, or going through an enclosure wall using a connector) will drop your EIRP by .5 dB. Cable losses vary by cable, which is why most people use a “low loss” cable like LMR400. If you want to run your EIRP numbers, here’s how.

Ok, ok, ok, why does it matter whether or not you know your EIRP?

Let’s take a short detour into dBm and power. dBm is based on a logarithmic scale. For every increase of 3 dBm, there is twice as much power output. Every increase of 10 dBm has a tenfold increase in power. The difference between a 3 dBi antenna (what most hotspots ship with) and an aftermarket 9 dBi antenna is a factor of 4!

Of course, that 4x power comes at a cost; the beam is focused; more laser and less lightbulb. That means that unless you aim your antenna very carefully, you can blast all that power into places that have no hotspots.

Here is a great example demonstrating attenuation and topography. This hotspot is placed on the north side inside a building. It’s up high with a higher gain antenna, and in general, inaccurately aimed over most of the nearby hotspots.

Most of the witnesses it’s getting are further north. Some of the signals bounce off to the side, proving that “RF is weird.”

To the south, the signals are blocked or attenuated by interior and exterior walls, but apparently there is a small window or opening where those weakened signals are escaping, then going pretty far over the water. Pretty neat, right? I mean, not for the hotspot owner, but it’s a neat demonstration of the concept.

That image is also a great example of why you should never put a hotspot antenna inside; you are losing a ton of power before the radio waves ever get outside the building.

Water allows radio signals to travel much further than normal; look at any hotspot next to a body of water and you’ll see it will connect with other hotspots at much further ranges across the water than it will across land.

Let’s not get too into the weeds here. As I said at the beginning, the general rule for topography is this: The flatter your topography, the higher gain antenna you can use, up to 9 dBi for 95% of placements. Beyond 9 the pattern generally gets too precise to provide the Wide coverage (the W in WUPU) that we want.

Remember, topography includes not just hills, mountains, and water, but all the buildings, bridges, and other structures that might block your radio signal. Cities in general do not have a flat topography, even if they’re built on flat land. All those spiky buildings sticking out will gobble up your radio signals.

That brings us to ELEVATION. If you want to bend your mind a little bit, think about this: The higher your elevation, the flatter the relative topography is, and the LOWER dbi antenna you can use. Wait, what?

Remember, a high dbi antenna focuses the signal of your antenna. In an omni antenna (we’ll get to directional or sector antennas in a minute), that shape becomes a flatter and flatter plane. If that plane is super flat, it’ll fly right over the tops of all those hotspots you want to hit. Let’s go through 3 examples.

Now, those aren’t how it *actually* works. The gain patterns are nowhere near as different, and a high gain antenna will STILL hit the ground within 1,000′ of even a 100′ building. Still, you can see why in *most* cases, you want a low or medium gain antenna up high.

You can also run that idea backwards; if you’re in a really flat area where you don’t have a lot of obstacles, a high gain antenna might be your best bet. Still, most people don’t live in the desert, and the flattest state in America has a ton of trees on it. If that’s your scenario, get a high gain (6-9 dBi) antenna up over the tops of those trees for maximum coverage.

That brings us in a roundabout way to Lines of Sight. Remember that $39 paper I quoted earlier regarding how much RF energy a given building material would absorb? The general takeaway for us Helium Hotspot owners is this: Our antennas won’t blast through much more than 2 buildings.

That means if you’re INSIDE the building, you’ve burned most of the energy of the antenna just getting outside the walls. If it hits just one more “thing”, whether it’s a building, a tree, or a billboard, that’s probably the end of the line.

This “Lines of Sight” idea has an important implication in understanding how some of the top earning hotspot/antenna combos are doing so well. The hotspot Docile Bone Pony* (when this was written, one of the highest earners in the world) is on top of a 16 story building in a major city with a medium/high gain antenna (8 dbi from eBay on 60′ of LMR400.) It has Lines of Sight to a lot of other hotspots, BUT those other hotspots don’t have great lines of sight to other hotspots around ’em.

That means that DBP is seeing a lot of hotspots that AREN’T seeing a lot of hotspots. I’m going to anthropomorphize this a bit, but their only option is to communicate with DBP. So they do. And DBP earns like crazy. It’s an example of the incredible earning potential that exists when providing asymmetric value to the network.

While we’re on Lines of Sight, let’s talk about the range of a standard hotspot. According to some excellent work done by the inimitable @para1 on Discord, most hotspots do most of their witnessing within a 10km range. Now, an in depth discussion of the implications and restrictions of this table is beyond the scope of this article, but your general takeaway should be “Optimize your antenna for hotpots within 10 km” aka most people don’t need a high gain antenna.

@para1’s table, posted in Discord

I’ll double tap this range thing with an example of a hotspot I run, which has a 3 dBi HNTenna on top of a 20′ pole on top of a ~30′ building. It *routinely* gets witnesses over 200km away. While it seems that a high gain antenna will get you better range, it doesn’t really matter. It’s Line of Sight that is the secret here.

Finally, Lines of Sight can be blocked by forests. Depending on who you listen to, LoRa doesn’t go through much more than 60 meters of dense forest. I’m sorry rural Florida, you’ve just got a tough row to hoe on that one. Dense forest in between you and other antennas is about the only time a higher gain (up to 9 dBi) makes sense, and even then it may not make a giant difference. Forests are RF sinks.

There is one more thing to think about with Lines of Sight. The 900 MHz frequency needs some runway, ideally 50’/15m to fan out enough to diffract around obstacles. Read that again and you’ll have an advantage over everyone who doesn’t get that concept.

The concept of Fresnel zones and diffraction in radio wave communication is one of the fundamental drivers of the “RF is weird” refrain you’ll hear whenever you see a pattern that doesn’t immediately make sense. Basically, the further out your radio waves go, the more they can spread out along their radiation pattern, the less likely that all of the waves get blocked, and the more likely that at least some of ’em will get to another hotspot.

At some distance they’re so spread out that you’re basically not going to make a connection, so the effective “window” shrinks back down. Like this:

Check out RadioMobile to get deep on Fresnel zones.

If you set up your antenna so that you’ve got lots of clear space around it before it hits obstacles, those radios waves have enough spread to start “bending around” those obstacles. This is yet another reason not to set up inside.

Here’s another “I definitely didn’t go to art school” drawing to demonstrate the idea of runway and diffraction.

If you give those radio waves some room to spread out, they can get around obstacles. Let ’em breathe!

Ok, we’ve got one more thing to consider before wrapping up. Many of you will have been scouring ham radio sites to figure out how to improve the range of your antenna. Keep in mind that the goal of many ham radio operators is incredible range, but that can come at the cost of broad coverage. Doing exactly what a ham operator does may give you the results they want, not what you want.

YOU want to hit as many high scale hotspots as possible. You’ll usually do that by using a low gain antenna up high, with clear lines of sight all around.

Remember, you’ll earn the most by delivering the most valuable & provable coverage to the network. The concept is simple. The execution can be complicated. If you want help with getting the maximum value out of your placements or strategy, I’m available for hire.

For those of you who skipped all that and just want to know what antenna to get, here are 4 generally good options for the 3 most common scenarios.

  1. In a building in the city? Get an outdoor HNTenna or a McGill in the 3-6 dBi range, put it outside up as high as you can.
  2. In a building where you just can’t get up high? Use the stock antenna that came with your hotspot. Also, find a better placement location. You did read about that, right?
  3. In a suburban house? Get either the HNTenna or a McGill in the 3-6 dBi range and put it on a pole outside and up high.
  4. On a mountain where you can’t possible transmit behind you (because the mountain will block your signal) and you have an enormous view of civilization and your nearest hotspot is more than 5 miles away? Try a 8-9 dBi patch antenna, like these.

I’ll round this out with what to definitely NOT do. Don’t just look at the gain of an antenna and think higher is better. Don’t bother with Yagi antennas. Finally, don’t worry too much about your antenna. In the big picture of earnings, it is FAR more important to have good placement and elevation. The fanciest, coolest, most high tech antenna in the world won’t get you much if you’re in a crappy location down low.

Best of luck with your placement and earnings, I’m stoked to be a part of this amazing community! If you’re looking for work in the Helium ecosystem, check out  Helium Jobs. You can post and find jobs there, help support the ecosystem by making it easier to connect professionally, and let the world know that YOU exist and want to help contribute within the Network. Rock on!

Resources and Further Reading

A deeper dive into understanding how RF works.

Calculating RF Power Values (explains why a 6 dBi antenna doubles your power)

900 MHz: The Wireless Workhorse. (Probably why Helium chose LoRa)

List of Helium Hotspots & Their Antennas

Before you read this and assume that you must have a high gain antenna in order to get great earnings, please keep in mind that these hotspot owners are generally tinkerers and often have some expertise in RF theory. The results are a little skewed because of that.

UPDATE: HeliumVision now reports this for all hotspot owners who have entered this on Helium app. I’ve closed submissions on this page.

Docile Bone Pony – Elevation: 16 stories, Area: Greater Boston, MA. Antenna: 8 dbi omni from eBay, Cables: 60′ of LMR400

Sweet Sage Pike – Elevation: 43′ above ground, Area: San Diego, CA. Antenna: Nearson 9, Cables: 5′ of LMR400

Chilly Blood Mongoose – Elevation: 41′ above ground, Area: San Diego, CA. Antenna: Laird FG9026 (6 dbi), Cables: 5′ of LMR400

Lucky Menthol Wasp – Elevation: 60′ above ground, Area: San Diego, CA. Antenna: RAK 5.8 dbi, Cables: 11′ LMR400

Nice Lipstick Chimpanzee – Elevation: 25′ above ground, Area: San Francisco, CA. Antenna: RFMAX | ROSA-900-SNF, Cables: 5′ LMR240

Interesting Pearl Starling – Elevation: 35′ above ground, Area: North Shore, MA. Antenna: RAK 5.8 dbi, Cables: RAK pigtail interface converter bundled with antenna

Jumpy Iron Ferret – Elevation: 34th story, Area: Chicago, IL. Antenna: Stock, Cables: N/A. Indoor setup.

Kind Infrared Lynx – Elevation: 15′ above ground, Area: Denver, CO. Antenna: Taoglas 8 dbi. Cables: 15′ LMR400

Lucky Dijon Scallop – Elevation: 33′ above ground. Area: Englewood, CO. Antenna: RAK 8 dbi. Cables: RAK pigtail cable

Sticky Pear Dolphin – Elevation: 311′ above ground (mountain). Area: San Francisco, CA. Antenna: Oukeione 3 dbi. Cables: Bingfu

Petite Menthol Leopard – Elevation 25′. Area: Napa, CA. Antenna: 5.8 RAK. Cables: Bingfu

Best Tangerine Racoon – Elevation: Second Floor Window. Area: Bayonne, NJ Antenna: Stock 3 dBi Cables: 1m pigtail

Warm Juniper Panther – Elevation: 4th floor rooftop. Area: Bayonne, NJ Antenna: Nearson 9 dBi. Cables: 4′ LMR400

Scrawny Eggplant Panda – Elevation: 35′ Area: Lakewood, OH Antenna 4 dBi Multipole Cables: N/A

Ancient Cider Grasshopper – Elevation: 40′ Area: Kansas City, MO Antenna: RAK Wireless 8 dBi Cables: 30′ LMR400

Oblong Slate Platypus – Elevation: 400′ Area: New York City, NY Antenna: Proxicast 10 dBi Cables: LMR400

Ripe Banana Goblin – Elevation: 2nd floor window Area: Vancouver, BC Antenna: Stock 3 dBi Cables: N/A

Trendy Rainbow Lizard – Elevation: 1st floor window Area: Vancouver, BC Antenna: Stock 3 dBi Cables: N/A

Striped Pewter Osprey – Elevation: 20′ Area: Los Angeles, CA Antenna: RAk 5.8 Cables: LMR400

472 thoughts on “What’s The Best Antenna For Your Helium Hotspot?”

  1. Hi Nik,

    thanks a lot for your great article. My city is really crowded (Beirut, Lebanon) and it will probably be filled with hotspots sooner than later. I plan to put my antenna at the rooftop. Highest point. Should I get the 5.8 dbi one (fiberglass) ? Or get a lower gain antenna (from hntenna) or just stick with the original ?
    Problem with the original is that I am going to need an extension to protect the miner from the rain/high temp/… so it will be a few meters far from the antenna, which cannot be covered by the stock antenna (4 dbi).
    Fyi: my building is 15 floors tall (around 55 meters tall).

    What do you suggest?


  2. What to do if I am in flat area but the closest hotspots are more than 10km away in all directions. Which antenna would you recommend?

  3. Get your antenna high enough to have a clear Line of Sight to other antennas. I’d use the HNTenna, but any of the good name brands will be fine.

  4. hello sir, thanks for all this valuable info.
    so, when would you use a 15db antenna? I purchased a 12 and a 16db and plan to install them on poles on top of roof at total of 35 feet or so in Orlando subs, in florida where there are no mountains. I figured it would help by reaching some hotspots in down town as well, some 5-10 miles away, giving me an edge on reach. I ran the simulator on hotspot RF and it shows that the higher gain antenna would reach more hot spots with higher db antenna. What are your thoughts?
    thank you!

  5. Hi Carlos, in the US you’d never use a 15 dBi antenna; it breaks FCC limits. 9 dBi is the max. With clear Line of Sight you can go hundreds of km, so a high gain antenna doesn’t give you any advantage with only 5-10 miles to cover. Hotspot RF has said they’re only accurate to 60% +/- 20%, and with the network changing so rapidly it’s probably even less reliable.

  6. Great Article. I’m considering setting up a helium hotspot in Hawaii. I live on the 10th floor of a 20floor+ building overlooking a canal and it’s pretty open. Not sure if I can just purchase a stock bobcat and have a decent amount of coverage.

  7. Right on Adam, that should work. Try putting a small metal sheet (think cookie tray) under the Bobcat antenna, that seems to increase performance. Keep us posted on how it goes!

  8. Hey Nik, generally speaking is it better to point an Antenna through a wall (close to it) or set it up next to a window? 2nd story house upstairs bedroom placement. CAN’T do outside. Trying the 4 dbi bobcat and will soon try the 5.8 and 8 dbi rakwireless as well as the 3 dbi indoor hntenna. Subbed to yer youtube and read a lot from you but missed this question above. I can get about 18 inches higher than the window if I setup next to the wall (would be close to ceiling). Should antennas be placed closest to wall or locate a foot back from it? Will report back on all antennas once I get some insight from you and complete all 4 antenna tests.

  9. Depends on window and wall type. Newer reflective windows can be a bear to get through. Give the signal some space to breathe; a foot off or more.

  10. I hope you can help – I need a cable to connect my bobcat 300 to my RAK 5.8 antenna to get it up on the roof of my house. I can not seem to find anywhere selling LMR400 cables with the correct connectors, which I believe are N Female (into the miner) & RP-SMA Male (into the RAK antenna)??

  11. Hi Nik, Great article ! I am looking more into the type of antenna i will need. My username is unique ceramic deer, it is almost done syncing up. Given my suburban location, with barely any high buildings, do you reccomend using the stock antenna, but simply setting it up on a really high pole ?

    How much better would a 2 DBI ( stock antenna ) up high be VS say the HNTenna 915 ?
    Thank you in advance !

  12. Hi Louis, I’d test the stock antenna and get it up as high as you can. The HNTenna will probably do a little better, but it won’t be magic.

  13. Hello, I’m somewhat confused on which antenna would be the best for the area that I’m in. My hotspot names are, lively foggy salamander , hidden champagne camel. Both locations are in a Neighborhood, flat with just trees. The closest hotspot is 3km to 6km away. The highest I would be able to get the antennas would be about 9ft. On the ledge of house.

  14. If lots of trees you may benefit from a 5.8, at least until PoCv11 comes. Otherwise, see if you can get it higher and roll with a lower gain antenna.

  15. Hi Nik, I had a consultant come and asses the installation of an antenna on the roof of the 4 storey building I live in. The issue he has is accessing the roof as it’s 25m high. I can get into the eaves and install the HNtenna there, but would there be a significant loss of signal through the roof tiles? Thanks

  16. Great article! Thanks so much for making it.

    I live in SUPER flat Florida, but there are Pine and Oak trees everywhere between all houses and neighborhoods (no tall buildings or geography), if I can get an antenna on top of my roof, but probably not quite over the top of the trees what would be your recommendation for my Bobcat miner?

    The beginning of your article makes it sound like I should go higher, up to 9dbi. Does that make sense considering all I have to clear is mostly just the tops of trees?

    Thanks again!

  17. Hi Andy, get the thing as high as you can and if it’s below the roofline, away from the side of the building. Without seeing your situation it’s hard to advise, but…the best you can do is the best you can do.

  18. Flattest state in the Union! If all you’ve got is the tops of trees for miles around, getting signal out will be hard. A 9 dBi will help a bit, but dense vegetation really dampens the signal. It’s kind of like fighting a forest fire with a garden hose: It’ll help save the house, but it won’t solve the problem. Better off getting it as high as possible or finding a better location.

  19. I live on a hill over looking all of Los Angeles.
    Behind me is more hills. In front of me is city lights. Less than 10 miles away is downtown Los Angeles
    There are many miners in my immediate vicinity, but I am one of the highest in elevation. How would a yagi work for me? Line of sight is great, would you advise against a 9dbi? What would work best in this situation?

  20. Hey Nik, GREAT article. I’m about to setup my fiirst hotspot, it’s in a location 15km far from the nearest hotspot but with a great elevation in a mountain and with direct sight to it (and the whole city). Do you think the patch antenna would reach this distance?

  21. Hi Arturo,
    Yep, a patch antenna will easily reach that, but an omni will also easily reach it. I’d go with an omni.

  22. Hi Nik..
    my hot spot is in the forest where I have a weekend .. I have 500m to the sea … the nearby town is 3km away .. across the sea I have towns that are 45km away .. it makes sense to have a hot spot and what would I need to reach hot points I am from Europe Slovenia Croatia

  23. Depends on clear line of sight across the water. It may work well if your hotspot can “see” those other hotspots. If you’re surrounded by dense forest it’ll be much more challenging.

  24. Hi Nik,
    Thank you for your advice and well written article.
    I have the (915) 902-928MHz from HNTENNA. What cable do you recommend I use to connect the antenna to my bobcat? The pin size looks different than the stock antenna. Do I need an adapter? Appreciate your help! Have a great weekend!

  25. Giovanni Ghinelli

    Hi Nik,

    Thanks a lot for the article, really helpful. I just have a specific doubt about the myner I just installed.

    I live in Modena, a relatively small city located in the plains in northern Italy, and I have positioned the myner at about 20 meters high (on the top floor of the building).
    I set up the myner (Sensecap with 2.8 Dbi antenna) about a week ago and I was wondering about the best outdoor antenna to buy (to date I have the myner and antenna inside the house positioned in front of a small window open all day) so I can install it directly on the roof.

    In your opinion, 5.8 Dbi is better or you can achieve better performance with the 8.0 Dbi?

    Thank you very much,

  26. Hi Giovanni, in a city with elevation you’ll want the antenna to be as low dBi as possible in order to get maximum local coverage. I’d got with an HNTenna, but any of the lower gain antennas (4 dBi and under) will work.

  27. Hi Nik,

    Great articles you post! I have 5 spots I just setup this last week. One of them is called Wobbly Glass Perch.

    My question is this, can I run a cable from the device (Rak V2) to just the antenna to place outdoors? Perhaps the HNTenna or an outdoor antenna? Hope that makes sense. I can’t place the Rak outside, so I have a 9db antenna attached to the outside of my spare bedroom about 15 meters up from the ground with a decent clear view. I have an HOA here, so I’m trying to be utilize as much concealment as possible as well as gaining the best coverage. Thank you!

  28. Hi Nik- thanks for all your efforts, you are a gentleman and a scholar! Would using a mast on top of a residential roof (to get more elevation) pose any issue with it being a lightning hazard? Do you take that into consideration at all or are there any measures that should be taken to reduce the risk?

  29. Stefan Hochstatter

    Hi Nick,

    I live in the suburbs outside of Milwaukee. There are three very poorly performing hotspots within a mile of me (one is being relayed). And then there are a ton of hotspots between seven and 10 miles to the south. Since most of the hotspots are that far away, does the low db antenna still make sense? Or should I move into medium gain?

    I’m planning to mount it on an 8 foot pole on the peak of my roof, which will put it above all of the other roofs. I am at a somewhat higher elevation than anything south or east and somewhat lower than anything north and west but it’s very gradual. So it seems like I have a particularly good location to hit hotspots to the south where all of them seem to be. Thanks for the advice! And great article.

  30. Hi Stefan, sounds you’ll have clear lines of sight, so you’ll probably be best served with a lower gain (3-6) antenna. 7-10 miles is no problem for LoRa at our output power & spreading factor.

  31. My miner is on the way but I’m unsure if I should preorder the RAK 5.8dbi antenna or if I should just use the stock MNTD antenna. There is a miner down the street from me “Brilliant Honey Beetle” but I can’t seem to tell what antenna he’s using. By my location, do you think I’d be able to benefit from a 5.8dbi?

  32. Depends on where you are. In the US, a 5.8 is a safe bet, though the clear line of sight your antenna will have to other miners is far more important than what antenna you buy. In the UK/EU, you’ll need a 5.8 dBi minimum due to the lower output power of the radio.

  33. hi buddy and congrats on the article. i live in Cyprus (EU) and i placed one of my miners to a friends house which is located on a slope. from the roof of the house you can see the whole town. basically at 180 degrees you can see the whole town. the rest of the 180 degrees basically you see the mountain. do you think that a Directional Antenna would suit better in this situation?
    thanks alot!!

  34. Thanks Michalis. How far from the town are you? I’d look at a slightly higher gain omni; never hurts to cover extra area, especially if that coverage might one day be useful.

  35. Salvatore Rainone Jr.

    Hey great article! My question to you is, what antenna should i use for my set up. My miner is located in Queens, NYC and its about 20-22 feet up right now in my attic. I would like to move it to my roof on top of my chimney. I have a bobcat miner and i use the stock 4bi antenna. Should i just get the outdoor enclosure kit and use the stock antenna or should i buy a different one? Please let me know if you need anymore info!

  36. I’d get the antenna up high and try and leave the Bobcat indoors where it’s temp controlled. Probably worth it to get an aftermarket antenna; I like the HNTenna, but it’ll also depend on cable length.

  37. Salvatore Rainone Jr.

    If i leave bobcat in my attic i can run the antenna cable about 20-30feet to the top of my chimney. What dbi do you recommend?

  38. Depends where in the world you are and what cable you use. LMR400 and the US? HNTenna. Outside the US? 5.8 – 8 dBi omni from any of the reputable brands.

  39. Salvatore Rainone Jr.

    Im in the south part of queens in NYC. Lot of miners in NYC and i am basically on the water so everything is elevated above me. I was planning on getting outside setup for bobcat miner so i dont need a 30ft cable because there will be cable loss. If its better to keep in my attic i will do that and run the wire to my roof and mount an antenna. I just would like to know what dbi is good for me. thanks

  40. Well, to be straight with you, anything in NYC is going to be a tough row to hoe, and the antenna won’t make that much difference.

  41. Salvatore Rainone Jr.

    oh ok. Maybe i should just buy the bobcat enclosure and put it on my roof with the stock 4bi antenna. its 22 feet up right now but on my chimney it would be 30 feet so that should make a difference.

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